Frequently Asked Questions

Closed-cell foam, at about R-5 to R-7 per inch according to HomeGuide. Open-cell is about R-3.5 to R-3.7 per inch. That is why closed-cell is used in shallow spaces like rowhome roof cavities.

Injection foams exist, but in older Reading walls we usually dense-pack cellulose through small holes instead. It costs less, fills around old framing and lets the wall dry. Open walls during a remodel are where spray foam fits best.

Foam that keeps warm, damp air off cold surfaces reduces condensation, which is what feeds mold. It does not fix leaks or remove existing mold, so leaks get fixed and mold gets cleaned first.

Several large chemical and building-product companies make spray foam systems. What matters more is that the installer uses the right foam for each spot, at the right thickness, and lets it cure properly.

Usually by reaching the shallow cavity between the top-floor ceiling and the roof deck, through the ceiling, the roof edge or during a roof replacement, and filling it with closed-cell foam or dense-packed cellulose. We look first and explain the options.

PHRC lists R-49 ceilings for Pennsylvania's Central zone, which includes Berks County, and the Department of Energy recommends R-60 for an uninsulated Zone 5 attic. Rowhome roof cavities often cannot reach those numbers, so we get as close as the space allows.

Yes, closed-cell foam against the roof deck is one of the best options for shallow flat-roof spaces. Access is planned case by case.

Closed-cell on the sill, rim and dry upper wall.

HomeGuide advises 24 hours or more. We confirm for your job.

We keep the work area closed off and ventilated to the outside.

The flat roof above it usually has little or no insulation, and summer sun heats the roof deck.

Often, yes, through the ceiling or roof edge. A roof replacement makes it easier.

It depends on depth. Closed-cell foam gets the most R-value per inch.

Usually a day or two.

The sill, rim and dry upper wall. Lower stone often needs to dry.

Usually noticeably.

After it is dry and the water source is handled.

Usually a day, less for a rowhome.

We seal around frames and openings. Broken or rotted windows need repair first.

Solid brick has no cavity to fill. We focus on sealing and on the roof and sill instead.

Yes, with dense-pack through small holes.

Live knob-and-tube should be replaced or confirmed safe first.

One to two days for most houses.

Rear additions on rowhomes were often built with little insulation. Dense-pack walls and filling the floor and roof usually fix it.

Yes, each wall or room is priced separately.

Yes, closed-cell on the steel stops condensation.

Yes, with care for the structure and moisture.

Rules vary by township, especially for heated or occupied buildings.

One to three days depending on size.

Usually by insulating a framed space inside it or the roof, so the stone can still dry.

Pebbly, gray-brown or gold loose fill, sometimes shiny.

No, a licensed abatement contractor does. We insulate after.

Usually a day.

No, only for wet, soiled or unsafe insulation.

Where possible, just the wet or soiled areas. We explain on the quote.

The hose runs from outside, and we protect the path.